Achmelvich to Ullapool

We have arrived in Ullapool after a mizzly damp day of challenging cycling. We took the 'scenic route' along the coast from achmelvich through lochinver which was indirect, and although we passed beautiful lochs and stunning hills, we were more preoccupied by the challenge of more hills and rain. 

Last night we camped at achmelvich beach which was really lovely. The campsite was basic but cheap (and had sheep roving round it which was entertaining!). We cooked curry and rice for dinner but despite eating about 400g of rice we were still hungry after and had a midnight feast of whisky and fig rolls to fill the void. 

Unfortunately we woke to rain and wind (although nowhere near as much as in Thurso!) but it did mean that cooking up porridge for breakfast was rather unappealing. We decided to head for lochinver fuelled by cereal bars in the hopes of finding a cafe for a bacon roll but no such luck. We stopped at the spar for oat bars and continued on to Achin bookshop in the middle of nowhere 3 miles down the coastal road where we had jacket potatoes as it was pretty much lunch time by then. 

After leaving the bookshop we continued on our way, snacking on sesame snaps and fancy cheesy crackers (Kargs) but stopping very frequently to on-or-off with waterproofs and keep topped up with snacks - we both spent the day ravenous! 

Ullapool seemed further and further away as each corner seemed to reveal a new set of climbs and a fresh dose of rain but we rolled into town at 5pm, just in time to ask directions to the hostel from tourist info. 

Having checked into the SYHA we have cooked enough spag bol for several people and are proceeding to eat the whole lot plus garlic bread!! We are drying out the tent and shoes and other such things and hope to catch some folk music in the pub this evening. Very happy to be warm and dry as the sea mist rolls over Ullapool harbour. We will be catching the ferry to Stornoway in the morning so are hoping for calm waters!